Shark Nuggets?

Tonight's Friday afternoon debauch was dinner out at the new Syberg's restaurant in Chesterfield. For several years, I have often driven past the Syberg's on Gravois Rd. in the the County and wondered about its shark logo and its description as "an eating and drinking company." I would think, "Have they come up with a way to get paid for eating and drinking? What a concept!"

I finally tried it today when I was looking for another joint in the Chesterfield Commons megamall and stumbled across this place that I know wasn't there a couple weeks ago. It looked cool, so I went in.

It is cool. My waitress was a master of her trade. Their crinkle-cut french fries are huge, plump, tender, and perfect, with just the right amount of crispiness on the outside and a perfectly cooked, tender, real-potato center. The pickle wedge was very nice. But my favorite bit, on this my first of what may turn out to be many visits, was a chicken-tender sandwich. Its thick onion roll held two plump strips of chicken breast meat, breaded in a unique yet delicious way, and topped with a "Syberg's Special Sauce" that, surprisingly, wasn't Buffalo-style (though Syberg's sells that too). It tasted a little mustardy, a little mayonnesque, and just spicy enough to make you think twice about trying the hottest of their half-dozen flavors of chicken wings. It reminded me of Durkee's Famous Sandwich & Salad Sauce, only with more zing.

Syberg's has a great appetizer menu, including toasted ravs, grilled-chicken potato skins, and most interesting of all, breaded and fried shark chunks! I wasn't hungry enough, by myself, to feel like risking $9 on a plate of these, but my waitress assures me they are one of Syberg's signature dishes. Maybe next time I'll have company with me and it will seem like a better idea. As it is, I left several finger-sized french fries on my plate (I never even touched the garnish of lettuce and tomato).

The food was good, the servings were goodly, and the dining room had a comfortable look and feel--a little less "steakhouse" than Applebees, a little less "burger joint" then Fuddrucker's, with a quieter and more mature atmosphere than Red Robin and a homier feel than Brick House. Flat screen TV's, yes; interior decor by tornado-cum-antique mall, no. Except for the shark nuggets, there isn't much on the menu you couldn't order anywhere else. But if my sandwich is indicative of the way this "eating and drinking company" does its business, the food set before you may be a pleasant surprise.